Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.

I am very glad we have taken many pictures so I can recall the days, they are beginning to blur. I will have to refer to my wonderful friend Lisa to get the details. I often ask her "what did we do yesterday?" And she asks, "did I take a shower yesterday?" Sometimes it's hard to remember without a sniff.

So Christmas Eve we went down to Jill's. Her Mother is in town and her little daughter M is there for PJ to fight with. Jill served many wonderful foods from her 2' x 2' kitchen. We started with cheese and pate and Champagne, then we had foi gras and oysters served with Sauternes (sweet white wine) different wine. There was a different wine for each course...(Here is where I say "Lisa what were those lobster things called?") Quenelles is the answer. That was the 2nd course. They looked like white hot dogs. They're basically just flour and egg and ground lobster. Next we had duck and little potatoes sauteed in duck fat and broccoli. That course was served with red wine. For dessert we had little piping hot chocolate or pear souffles served with fig wine. You can see why I cannot remember much. It was amazing and the kids actually got along great with each other. As you can see from the photo below.

PJ caught whatever crud M was carrying and now we are all sick. Each one of us has a slight variation of a cold. I have a cold sore, PJ has bags under her eyes and water coming from all the orifices and poor Lisa has a horrible cough. If I had her cough I would probably pee my pants just from force, but luckily she has the ability not to pee her pants. (Even though she's old enough to wear Depends.)

Christmas day we took a taxi to Lisa's friend's apartment. This in its self was a luxury - no stinky people to fight with on the bus and no stroller. The ride was scary (crazy drivers) but we made it to a beautiful part of the city and to a very luxurious 7th-floor apartment with two potties and a terrace.

Our hostess and her two grown children were Indian and very kind and sweet. The group was mostly people from Lisa's school and they all have the same complaints about college students. They are rude and talk in class. Strange...if you PAY to go to school, shouldn't you give a care?

Anyway, the food again was many courses and different drinks for each. We had hot mulled wine and foi gras. This is very traditional around here for Christmas. Dinner was ham, pork curry, prawn curry, rice and roasted vegetables (fennel, carrots, etc.) served with red wine. Then came a turkey. My eyes popped out of my head. I thought, wow, this woman has been cooking for days. Not 20 minutes went by and it was time for dessert and Champagne. This dessert was a Christmas pudding that had been steaming for 8 hours. It had carrots and raisins and other unknowns. She poured cognac on it and set it on fire! The cake was beautiful, it burned in bright blue and was served with brandy butter. We also had a slice of ginger bread. This was the most decadent and festive thing YET!

The adults (not me, I am the kid tender) played balderdash. PJ and I watched a movie as she got sicker and sicker. I felt terrible for making Lisa leave her adult fun but we had to go. (But she assured me that it was ok. Even though she's the queen of vocabulary - she knows words like sacerdotal - she had never heard of any of the words and was losing.) We took our taxi home and were eager to batten down the hatches for a couple days while the sickness passed all three of us.

The next day Lisa made a roasted pork loin with apples, garlic and shallots. On top of the pork, she slathered blueberry jam. She had wonderful stuffing with celery, raisins, orange juice and white wine. (She didn't tell me she also mixed in duck liver pate.) For dessert, she poached some pears in butter, cinnamon, orange peel and red wine but we were too full to eat them. We were able to drink the hot wine and butter that she strained off, however (Ahem). The next morning, we warmed the pears and topped them with Crème fraiche (kind of like sour cream) and granola and had them with our morning coffee. The meal the night before was the most comforting to me. I think it's the stuffing that says "holiday" to me. Very, very yummy.

Are ya drooling yet?

Food glorious food!
Kelsie

PS: I asked Lisa to edit and she added a few "Lisaisms." I would never say she is of a certain age to wear Depends, or use words like sacerdotal... (even though she does. xoxoxoxo Lisa)

Drink much??

This is a recycling bin for glass bottles. The black dot on the top is a rubber hole that you shove your bottles into. It is full, so the people have nicely placed the overflow on the ground below. They are mostly standing up so someone, or many someone's have taken the time to stand them up. I just took down our glass and the building bin is also full. Everyone has made much merry for the Christmas holiday.

After our Eiffel Tower experience and a cozy lunch, we boarded the 42 bus and got off at Opera (right near the huge Opera building) so we could change to the 66 bus to take us back home. While trying to figure out where the 66 bus stop was, we walked behind the Opera so we could see the Christmas lights on the department stores. Printemps department store (in the video above) was my personal favorite. Even during the day when the lights were off, these giant flowers made me happy. As I stood taking pictures, Lisa was reading the map to see where we had to go to catch our bus. The streets were packed with people so we didn't mind getting a little exercise while searching for the bus stop, but preferably away from the crowds.

We also wanted to see the Galeries Lafayette display windows and the tree inside. Galeries Lafayette is a large, mall-sized department store. The crowds, inside and out, were insane. I have never done black Friday at Walmart but I bet these crowds can rival those. We made our way inside to see the tree and it was a beautiful tree - ten stories high with giant gifts flying about the top. The store was very high-end and we only saw the handbag and perfume departments. After some photos of the tree we went back outside (fighting the crowds every inch of the way).






Outside, the display windows were 15 people deep. Kids were on parents' shoulders and people were pushing and shoving just to see some animated stuffed bears and Hello Kitties. I jumped up and saw bits and pieces of a couple of the windows but we decided it was too hectic and we will try again after Christmas. Around the corner, there were beautiful, high-fashion windows that people weren't as interested in, so we got a couple of great shots. This one was so beautiful and both Lisa and I lusted for the shoes.

For those of you who share our shoe fetish, a detailed shot is required.












Lisa told me it was so hectic not just because of the number of people who live in Paris (There are approximately 3 million people in a 34 square-mile radius. To put that in perspective, the total population of America is about 300 million and the population of New York City exceeds 8.3 million people, with a land area of 305 square miles), but also because all the people who live outside of Paris come into the city to do last-minute shopping and to see the lights. And that doesn't include all the tourists who are here for the holidays! Everyone is in Paris to shop. Our land yacht stroller again came in handy to push our way through the masses and to protect my kid from the dazed people who do not watch where they are walking, with their shopping bags flopping about. I have never felt so aggressive. I not only had to fight the masses, I had to watch for motor scooters, people on bikes, busses and smart cars all running red lights. IT'S MADNESS!

We finally got ourselves safely away from the herd and headed back to St. Lazare to catch the 66 back to home base. We found out it was the LAST bus so we had to get on. Normally they come every 7-8 minutes so you can, like with an elevator that's too full, say ahh, I'll get the next one. But we HAD to get this bus. Guess what? It pulls up and it's packed and nobody got off. Crap. So we just put the yacht on and pushed. A lady with ANOTHER stroller got on the bus and we helped her shove hers behind ours. I don't know how we did it and I didn't ask. At every stop we hoped and prayed that 20 people would get off so we could breathe. No luck. One off two on, etc.

When we got to our stop, 10 people had to get off, then let us depart and then get back on the bus. I was sitting on a guy's lap and had another tall man holding the rail above me so my face was in his arm pit. Smelled like French cheese. I relaxed my arm and accidentally groped the guy I was sitting on and could have easily made out with the guy above me. I am a little claustrophobic, so I was talking myself down off the cliff the whole time. I was so happy to be off that bus.

Our bus stop is right across the street from the "local" - L'Insolent - and Tomas saw us and tried to get us to come in for a hot drink, but we just wanted to get home!

Long day to the Eiffel Tower

A couple days ago (I cannot remember what day it is today, so I have no idea what day this was, maybe the 23rd) we made the all day trip, 4 miles, across town to see the Eiffel Tower. This is more important to me than the Louvre because I am much more impressed by a giant metal piece of art where I can climb to the top than a 11X13 painting of a man in drag (Mona Lisa). So, being the tourist that I am, this was an exciting day.

Every thing we do here is a production so this day started with us getting ready and out of the house with snacks, water, all of our many layers of clothing, the stroller and bus route. We are getting very good at taking the bus and I enjoy the scenery every time. We took our usual 66 bus that has a stop just outside the front door and it takes us to St. Lazare train station and many of the buses start and stop at this main hub. The 66 does stop here but it also goes past this stop to the Opera and that was where we needed to go to catch our next bus. However we were kicked off the bus at St. Lazare and had to stand and wait on the curb for the next 66. I guess that driver was on break. As we and a couple other ladies grumbled and mumbled onto the cold street corner, Lisa said this is typical. I thought it was quite strange.

We caught our second 66 bus and got back on track after about 15 minutes. At the Opera we changed buses again and this next route was down the Champs Elysees toward the Eiffel Tower. The entire street was lined with little white houses and millions of lights in the trees. These "houses" were all stands selling Christmas items. Fig wine, Foi Gras, hats, jewelry, etc. There were also jumping houses for the kids. We did not visit this area but I took many pictures through the bus window. Very magical.

As we arrived at the property where the Eiffel Tower sits we were immediatly accosted by street vendors trying to sell mini towers of all colors, shapes and forms. No Merci, no Merci, no Merci, they were relentless. We got in line to buy our tickets and Lisa exclaimed she has never seen such a short line. It took about an hour to get through to the ticket booth. All the while I had to hold steady to my pole postion because a group of snobby Italian chicks were trying to cut in line. They said our friend is up there (in Italian). Luckily the man in front of us spoke Italian and told them no. I saw the friend, he was by himself wearing a big Russian furry hat and gold aviator sunglasses. Funny looking. He should have joined the eight bee-otches behind us, not the other way around. Instead they pushed against Lisa and I and blew their cigarette smoke right at us all the while staring us down. HA HA. They did not know who they were dealing with. Lisa and I held our spot strong and we had the couple in front of us to back us up and translate. When turning down each segment of the zig-zag line maker thing, these wonderful people would not go behind us but right beside us staring at me and down at PJ. I don't know what they were thinking, if they irritated me enough I would let them pass, NO, I wanted to punch one of the pretty girls in the nose. But I held back...

Once we went through security and got back in line to take the elevator we ended up following a little family - they looked Israeli, sounded German, spoke English - parents and two little humans. So they too had a stroller and a baby bucket to schlep to the top. The stroller rule was it had to be folded up so I carried PJ's pretty much to the top. We just happened behind them on more than one occasion.

There are two elevators one goes to the 1st & 2nd floors (you can get off on the 1st or stay on the elevator to go to the 2nd) and you walk up to the 2nd level of the 2nd floor to get in line again to go to the top. The first elevator is huge and not terribly scary. The second is a "ride." Lisa closed her eyes and went to her happy place and I took pictures. PJ, being a thrill seeker and a very brave little girl, had her forehead on the glass so she could look straight down and was cheering how much fun we were having. It's a scary ride I loved every minute of the experience.






When you arrive at the top, you can walk around an enclosed place and you can climb one more set of stairs to the very top and you are outdoors. We were in the clouds, so the pictures were better from the 1st floor but PJ and I went up there and it was cold and wet. Mr. Eiffel's tiny apartment is up there. It has been preserved and you can look in the windows. What a place to live. I would love that view every day and through every season. The swaying in the wind might take some time to get used to... There is a window bar where they just have Champagne. We did not partake because we wanted to sit down and have some lunch. The restaurant on the tower was closed and there was only a snack bar so we headed down to the street level to find a place to eat.

Following the little family again we waited in line to catch a ride down. We were only up there maybe an hour because it's very cold and we had a stroller and the kid that goes in it to deal with. We departed the tower and PJ got a hot pink tower key chain. Down the block was a cafe where we could sit, relax and have a leisurely lunch. My child was sleepy and in order to keep her at the table longer I bribed her with a ride on a merry-go-round. It worked. Lisa and I enjoyed our lunch and Chardonay and then we walked across the street to the very old carousel and PJ had her ride.

We then headed to the bus stop and back to Lisa's condo. This experience took the entire day.

We got off at the Opera and walked so we could see the lights and the store front windows. This will be another blog post. I have to log off now and tend to my sick kid. She caught a cold on Christmas day so she is extra needy. I need to also write about our wonderful Christmas eve party and our Christmas morning and Indian Christmas dinner. Wow. I better get busy I have so much more to write.

Stay tuned,
K

PJ's Paris Modeling Gig

On the walls of Lisa's flat are large posters that they use as advertisements on giant billboards in the Metro. Her ex stole a bunch of them and they make fine wall coverings. PJ thought this one was all about her and she loved that Lisa had her name hung behind the couch. We wanted one picture with her and her name but the girls made it into a modeling shoot. I was in the kitchen and I could hear Lisa directing, and coaching and they both were giggling and and having a wonderful time. Enjoy this video of PJ and her Paris gig. Such fun!!

Princess "P" and her tree house

This picture is not in focus but, out of the 15 self-portraits I took, this one is the best. PJ is supposed to be taking a nap. The funny thing is, while sitting on the couch in the living/dining/office/2nd bedroom we can see her in the reflection of the bathroom mirror - goofing off and not sleeping! So, I knew we should capture it so I could remind her for the rest of her life how she would not take a nap and would not go to sleep at night until I came to bed.

I'm so proud of her that she has no fear of climbing the ladder up into the tree house. As soon as she saw the ladder, she scrambled right up, with no assistance, but with me and Lisa cringing and ready to catch her if she slipped or fell. She isn't afraid to look or even hang her head over the side, either.

I enjoy the close quarters of the apartment. I have slept with my kid every night and each time she either holds my hand or curls up on my shoulder to fall asleep.

Paris, or maybe it's all of Europe, is family oriented and they do not hate the site of little children. Last night our server/bartender/cook/restaurant owner took our dinner order with a 14 month old baby on his hip. You would never see this in Scottsdale, maybe in the mountains of Colorado, but never have I seen such a pleasant sight. I have never felt welcomed let alone empowered because I am mommy&baby like I do here in Paris. This is how it should be. Maybe in America we would not have so many self esteem problems if, as little children, we were appreciated and not set aflame with the glares of retirees. I live in Carefree, AZ - a retirement town - and everything in the baby aisle of the grocery store has gone stale and when I enter a store or restaurant I am met with many unwelcoming eyes. You can maybe sense I am a little scorned that they don't appreciate us, after all, my kid is not screaming or throwing fits. She is just there, that brat, how dare she?

Look at this wonderful painting of baby Jesus and his mommy. I know, I know there is a lot more going on in the painting but all I see is the basic life that is mommy and her baby and I love it. So many people find breast feeding inappropriate and shameful. I, however, have never felt closer to God than the first time my baby was able to latch on and I was feeding her, and then for the months following as I got better at feeding her and the closeness I felt to my baby. It's so natural and wonderfully weird. I think in America this painting would be banned and here it was one of the first we got to see.

Here is one of the oh-so-famous rose windows of Notre Dame. One of two incredible works of art. Again, the quality of the photo is not perfect but it gives great depth. The tiny little people and the giant stained glass windows.

Laundry and Perfume

(picture of us in the dining/living/entry/foyer of Lisa's pad see the ladder to our bed/tree house)

Yesterday I did laundry at the laundromat. It was weird but an interesting experience. I went down there alone with the clothes, soap, and money. There was a little old Chinese man who did not speak English or French so we basically did sign language and he wrote down numbers. In the end some of the clothes got clean and some did not. I now get why everyone is dowsed in perfume. Taking a shower is work and the washing machines suck. I now get it.

After PJ's nap we went to Lisa's old neighborhood. It's a 15min walk from this area and walking is fun because you can look into all the windows and up at all the wonderful apartments and architecture.

We went to what I think looks like a big lots or upgraded dollar store, called Giga (pronounced gee-guh). Its all cheap and its everything from pots & pans to panties. We got a sauce pan for Lisa and some Christmas gifts for PJ and her friend "A" in the states. By the way I have changed or abbreviated names to protect the not so innocent (Jill)... Here they call Santa Father Christmas but we have decided that Lisa is Mother Christmas. So Mother Christmas and I did our best to sneak items up to our little palace. I can't wait for Christmas.

(This picture was taken by PJ's own camera, I am sad at the quality but I love her views)

Next we walked to this little cafe and ate and ate and ate. The food here is so good and its not what you think heavy sauces and lots of bread, well there is lots of bread. But its fresh and wonderful. We had a stew with chicken, green beans and wild mushrooms over pasta. We stayed for dessert and more wine as we prepared to walk home in the rain. This area is too far for tourists so we and our stroller really stand out "hey we are American" look out! I of course enjoyed this day very much. I like getting off the tourist paths and seeing how other people really live. And guess what - we are all the same with the exception of peeing on the street, all the boys just whip it out any where and every where.

As we plan our next adventure I look forward to writing more.